Jean Paul Gaultier says his latest collection feels like a ''new beginning''.

The legendary designer recently signed a deal for his top women's collection with Italy's Gibò SpA - his original partner in the 80s and early 90s - and he admits he was keen to get back to his roots.

He told WWD: ''It feels like a new beginning.

''In fashion, it's about the sensibility of the moment, and I thought it was time to show things which are still good today and can add something extra [to the wardrobe]. But I also wanted to give young women the opportunity to have some of the shapes and pieces I'm most proud of and that are truly me.''

A lot of the items have a Neoprene lining but he insists the material has improved greatly since the 80s.

He said: ''You see, Neoprene is much more sophisticated today than it was then. The pieces I did in '88 must be damaged by now, but the new generation of Neoprene will last another 50 years, I assure you.

''Luxury sells well, but I always thought it was good to have something more basic that is of value as well.''