Dollar, who holds the world record for the largest wave ever paddled into, broke his neck in four places on Monday (07Sep15).

He has released a statement which reads: "I'm so thankful I'm alive and present today. Being surrounded by my loved ones through this time has been paramount for me.

"I'm so grateful for those who where there in my scariest and darkest hour and who acted on my behalf to get me to safety and reach the hospital in time. I'm thankful to learn that even with these severe injuries I will make a full recovery."

Fellow big wave surfer Darryl Virostko tells the San Jose Mercury News, "He got really lucky, as lucky as the doctors have seen. He's recovering, he's going to be OK."